Cull cows represent between 15 and 30 percent of a cow-calf herd's revenue, but relatively little attention is given to cull cow marketing. Most cow-calf producers traditionally sort and sell cull cows in the fall when prices are at or near the seasonal low. However, alternative management systems and timing of cull cow marketing may increase net revenues for the cow-calf operation. The purpose of this weeks article is to report the first year's findings of a three-year cull cow management study conducted at the Noble Foundation in collaboration with the Department of Agricultural Economics at Oklahoma State University.
A total of 48 cull cows were randomly assigned to one of two cull cow management systems, including 1) feeding 24 cull cows on grain and supplement in dry lot confinement and 2) a system that allowed 24 cull cows to graze native forage pasture. The experiment was conducted from October 2007 to April 2008. Various data measurements were taken at five intervals including the initial culling date (Oct. 3). Time periods after culling were 42 days (Nov. 15), 78 days (Jan. 10), 111 days (Feb. 12), 134 days (March 6) and 164 days (April 2). Data were collected on weight, estimated USDA grade, estimated dressing percentage, costs (feed, animal health, etc.) and estimated market value. For each feeding time interval and each cumulative period, estimated animal performance and net returns were calculated. Estimated USDA grade and dressing percentage were used to assign a price to each cow, based on prices reported by the Agricultural Marketing Service (AMS) for cull cows in Oklahoma sold the same week. The market value of each cow at each period was calculated. Data enabled tracking animal performance, costs and estimated value, all of which are critical to assessing the added costs and returns for retaining cows beyond the normal culling date.
Average daily gain (ADG) declined generally for each group of cows. ADG was higher for cows in dry lot after 42 days (November) and remained higher for each cumulative feeding interval. For both management systems, the decline in ADG indicated weight gain was slowing as the length of the feeding period increased.
Average cost of gain was lower for cows on grass compared with cows in dry lot. Cows in dry lot gained faster, but ration costs were much higher, thereby contributing to the higher cost per gain. Feed costs accounted for 83 to 93 percent of total costs for each feeding interval. Percentages were higher for cows in dry lot than cows on grass.
For all intervals, net returns were greater for cows on grass than cows in dry lot. Cows gained in value during the first 42 days (October to November) from added weight, but declined in value over that 42-day period from the drop in prices. After the first interval, price increases offset losses in value from weight loss for cows on grass. Cows in dry lot increased in value both from additional weight gain and increase in prices. However, net returns for cows in dry lot declined due to the higher feed costs associated with obtaining the weight gain.
Cows on grass lost weight after the first 42 days (October to November), reducing their value. However, their ration costs were low, so even at lower weights, their value increased due to higher prices. The higher prices and lower costs compensated for the loss in weight.
Results suggest a potential for holding cows beyond culling for about three months on a low-cost feeding program. However, results indicate the key to net returns in this first year of the experiment was experiencing the typical seasonal price increase from the low in November through the January-February period. You can find this and past articles on the web at www.mycountrytractor.com for your reference. Extension programs serve of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperatings serve of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperating.
Thank you,
Tommy Neyland
County Extension Agent
Texas Agrilife Extension Service
P.O. Box 188
Centerville, Texas 75833
903.536.2531 phone
903.536.3804 fax
Friday, August 14, 2009
COW COUNTRY CONGRESS – 2009
The 2009 Cow Country Congress program will meet at the Corlay
Farm & Cattle Co. in Dodge, Texas on Friday, September 25th. This
multifaceted agricultural enterprise is owned by Dr. Jody Crawford of
Huntsville. Dr. Crawford’s farm has been known in Walker County for
extremely high quality hay production, and intensive beef herd
management characterized by progressive reproductive practices. Dr.
Crawford’s interest in wildlife management has developed into a
variety of wildlife related enterprises and projects which will be viewed
on the ranch during the program. Corlay Farm & Cattle Co. has had an
ongoing quail management and establishment program for many years
and is now diversifying into Whitetail deer operations. This event will
showcase truly outstanding facilities for working both cattle and
Whitetail deer. Additional information regarding the Corlay Farm &
Cattle Co can be viewed online at http://www.corlayranch.com
Program registration will begin at 8:30 AM. The program will begin
with introductions at 9:00 AM. Individuals interested in attending the
2009 Cow Country Congress should R.S.V.P. prior to September 21st
to the Walker County Extension Office (936) 435-2426, or your local
participating County Extension Office from any of the seven traditional
host counties. A registration fee of $10.00 per person will provide
each participant a Chicken Fried Steak Lunch with ALL the trimmings!
In addition to the benefits of a catered lunch, on-site
commercial vendors, and touring the ranch
operation, each participant with a Texas
Department of Agriculture- Pesticide
Applicators License will be eligible for 2
hours of Continuing Education Credits for
renewal of their license. Additional
participant credit of 3.5 hours will be given
for Beef Quality Assurance (BQA)
recertification. Some of the bucks in the two year old pen.
Views of the beef cattle facilities.
ABOUT COW COUNTRY CONGRESS
Cow Country Congress is an annual multi-county event
begun in the early 1980’s supported by the Extension Beef
& Forage Committees from Walker, Madison, Houston,
Trinity, Leon, Freestone and Anderson Counties. This
educational program rotates within the group of host
counties each year. In addition to the traditional seven
county area, beef producers from outside these counties
are invited to attend this educational program.
Participants in attendance have the opportunity to visit
with a variety of commercial exhibitors several times
during the course of the day between presentations,
demonstrations, and tours of the host property.
COW COUNTRY CONGRESS DIRECTIONS
Directions to Corlay
Farm & Cattle Co. are
as follows:
1-45 to Madison-
1-45 to Conroe
Hwy 30 to
College Station
Hwy 190 to
Oakhurst &
Riverside
Hwy 19 to
Trinity
Huntsville
Corlay Farm & Cattle Co.
Dodge, Tx
FM 405
Corlay Farm & Cattle Co.
Dodge, Texas (FM 405)
September 25, 2009
8:30 –9:00 AM – Registration
Registration Fee: $10.00 per person
R.S.V.P. is required for Meal Planning prior to
September 21st. Contact Your Local County
Extension Office:
• Walker County (936) 435-2426
• Madison County (936) 348-2234
• Trinity County (936) 642-1421
• Houston County (936) 544-3255
• Leon County (903) 536-2531
• Freestone County (903) 389-3436
• Anderson County (903) 723-3735
Walker County – 2009 Host for
Cow Country Congress
Corlay Farm & Cattle Co.
Dodge, Texas (FM 405)
September 25, 2009
8:30 AM – Registration
Registration Fee: $10.00 per person
R.S.V.P. is required for Meal Planning prior to September 21st.
Contact Your Local County Extension Office.
9:00 AM – Welcome:
Topics & Presentations:
"Smart Fertilizer -
Planning, Purchasing & Utilization"
Artificial Insemination & Embryo
Transfer for small producers-
Realistic Expectations, Logistics,
Equipment & Practices
Forage Legumes-
Can They Meet Your Needs
Alternative Methods for Legume
Establishment
Native Forages
Selection, Establishment & Management
Noon Meal: Chicken Fried Steak and ALL the Trimmings!
Concurrent Sessions:
Beef Quality Assurance –Chute Side Management
Facilities for working Whitetail Deer
Tour of Deer Breeding Pens
Visit With
Commercial Vendors from a
Variety of Ag Support Industries
This program is supported by the Texas AgriLife Extension Service
Beef &
Farm & Cattle Co. in Dodge, Texas on Friday, September 25th. This
multifaceted agricultural enterprise is owned by Dr. Jody Crawford of
Huntsville. Dr. Crawford’s farm has been known in Walker County for
extremely high quality hay production, and intensive beef herd
management characterized by progressive reproductive practices. Dr.
Crawford’s interest in wildlife management has developed into a
variety of wildlife related enterprises and projects which will be viewed
on the ranch during the program. Corlay Farm & Cattle Co. has had an
ongoing quail management and establishment program for many years
and is now diversifying into Whitetail deer operations. This event will
showcase truly outstanding facilities for working both cattle and
Whitetail deer. Additional information regarding the Corlay Farm &
Cattle Co can be viewed online at http://www.corlayranch.com
Program registration will begin at 8:30 AM. The program will begin
with introductions at 9:00 AM. Individuals interested in attending the
2009 Cow Country Congress should R.S.V.P. prior to September 21st
to the Walker County Extension Office (936) 435-2426, or your local
participating County Extension Office from any of the seven traditional
host counties. A registration fee of $10.00 per person will provide
each participant a Chicken Fried Steak Lunch with ALL the trimmings!
In addition to the benefits of a catered lunch, on-site
commercial vendors, and touring the ranch
operation, each participant with a Texas
Department of Agriculture- Pesticide
Applicators License will be eligible for 2
hours of Continuing Education Credits for
renewal of their license. Additional
participant credit of 3.5 hours will be given
for Beef Quality Assurance (BQA)
recertification. Some of the bucks in the two year old pen.
Views of the beef cattle facilities.
ABOUT COW COUNTRY CONGRESS
Cow Country Congress is an annual multi-county event
begun in the early 1980’s supported by the Extension Beef
& Forage Committees from Walker, Madison, Houston,
Trinity, Leon, Freestone and Anderson Counties. This
educational program rotates within the group of host
counties each year. In addition to the traditional seven
county area, beef producers from outside these counties
are invited to attend this educational program.
Participants in attendance have the opportunity to visit
with a variety of commercial exhibitors several times
during the course of the day between presentations,
demonstrations, and tours of the host property.
COW COUNTRY CONGRESS DIRECTIONS
Directions to Corlay
Farm & Cattle Co. are
as follows:
1-45 to Madison-
1-45 to Conroe
Hwy 30 to
College Station
Hwy 190 to
Oakhurst &
Riverside
Hwy 19 to
Trinity
Huntsville
Corlay Farm & Cattle Co.
Dodge, Tx
FM 405
Corlay Farm & Cattle Co.
Dodge, Texas (FM 405)
September 25, 2009
8:30 –9:00 AM – Registration
Registration Fee: $10.00 per person
R.S.V.P. is required for Meal Planning prior to
September 21st. Contact Your Local County
Extension Office:
• Walker County (936) 435-2426
• Madison County (936) 348-2234
• Trinity County (936) 642-1421
• Houston County (936) 544-3255
• Leon County (903) 536-2531
• Freestone County (903) 389-3436
• Anderson County (903) 723-3735
Walker County – 2009 Host for
Cow Country Congress
Corlay Farm & Cattle Co.
Dodge, Texas (FM 405)
September 25, 2009
8:30 AM – Registration
Registration Fee: $10.00 per person
R.S.V.P. is required for Meal Planning prior to September 21st.
Contact Your Local County Extension Office.
9:00 AM – Welcome:
Topics & Presentations:
"Smart Fertilizer -
Planning, Purchasing & Utilization"
Artificial Insemination & Embryo
Transfer for small producers-
Realistic Expectations, Logistics,
Equipment & Practices
Forage Legumes-
Can They Meet Your Needs
Alternative Methods for Legume
Establishment
Native Forages
Selection, Establishment & Management
Noon Meal: Chicken Fried Steak and ALL the Trimmings!
Concurrent Sessions:
Beef Quality Assurance –Chute Side Management
Facilities for working Whitetail Deer
Tour of Deer Breeding Pens
Visit With
Commercial Vendors from a
Variety of Ag Support Industries
This program is supported by the Texas AgriLife Extension Service
Beef &
Friday, July 31, 2009
Chute N The Bull
I hate shopping. My wife buys all my clothes for me, which suits me just fine. When I do shop, I try to find the best deal for my money. This same concept applies to shopping for hay. Most of the time, I have a good idea of what my money is purchasing. Labels list features, ingredients, warranties, weight or other information that I can use to make my money go further.
When shopping for hay, a list of its features such as crude protein or pounds in a bale may or may not be available, making valuation of hay difficult, if not impossible. This can be easily remedied by asking for a hay analysis and a bale weight, or testing and weighing it yourself prior to purchase. Make sure when sampling hay that you obtain a test for each hay type (bermudagrass, sorghum sudan, wheat, etc.) and for each cutting. Ideally, the same thing would go for bale weight.
After obtaining the forage analysis, compare hay based on dry matter and not as-fed. Pay attention to moisture; the ideal moisture content at baling should be 17-18 percent. If moisture content is higher than this at the time of testing, it could signal problems.
There are some complex methods for placing a value on hay based on crude protein (CP) and total digestible nutrients (TDN), and then adjusting price compared to a known supplement value like soybean meal or corn. So how could a producer get a quick and dirty field estimation of hay value without dragging along a laptop to run all the calculations?
Always start by establishing a price based on per pound or per ton basis rather than per bale. Next, look at the hay quality analysis. Table 1 shows an example using nutrient content of grass hays based on the USDA grass hay quality guidelines. Prices assigned to quality are from the Oklahoma Hay Market Report for the week of June 25. So even though I may be giving up a little in protein, are the cheaper hays (B-C) still a good value for my money compared to A? A really simple way to figure this is to establish the crude protein unit cost of A which is $4.33 (65/15 = $4.33). Next, determine the value of the other hays in comparison to A based on per unit of crude protein content.
Table 1. Compared to A, the value of hays B-D is considerably lower and would not be considered a bargain even though they are priced less. Let's look at this another way: if we compared only hays A and B, and held the cost of B constant at $55/T, how high would A have to increase in price before the two values equal? Since B is being used as the comparison, establish the per unit value of its crude protein (55/11 = $5) and then compare to A (15 X 5 = $75). The price of A would have to increase $10/T to $75/T before the value of A=B on a per unit crude protein basis.
Note that this method is only comparing one nutrient and ignores other nutritional differences that may exist. However, as a general rule, with higher crude protein values, we also see higher TDN and lower fiber levels.
You also need to consider the class of livestock you are shopping for. For example, a dry pregnant cow in mid-gestation only needs 8-9 percent CP hay. So, while hay A is a better value based on crude protein, this type of cow does not need the high quality and it is still $20/T higher. On the other hand, this method can help when targeting hay for animals with high nutritional demands. This method also is not establishing a price; it is establishing a value, which can make comparison shopping a lot easier when price and quality are known.
Table 2 shows another tool - the USDA hay quality guidelines and the class of livestock for which they will work - that can also help in your shopping. You can find this and past articles on the web at www.mycountrytractor.com for your reference. Extension programs serve of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperatings serve of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperating
Thank you,
Tommy Neyland
County Extension Agent
Texas Agrilife Extension Service
P.O. Box 188
Centerville, Texas 75833
903.536.2531 phone
903.536.3804 fax
When shopping for hay, a list of its features such as crude protein or pounds in a bale may or may not be available, making valuation of hay difficult, if not impossible. This can be easily remedied by asking for a hay analysis and a bale weight, or testing and weighing it yourself prior to purchase. Make sure when sampling hay that you obtain a test for each hay type (bermudagrass, sorghum sudan, wheat, etc.) and for each cutting. Ideally, the same thing would go for bale weight.
After obtaining the forage analysis, compare hay based on dry matter and not as-fed. Pay attention to moisture; the ideal moisture content at baling should be 17-18 percent. If moisture content is higher than this at the time of testing, it could signal problems.
There are some complex methods for placing a value on hay based on crude protein (CP) and total digestible nutrients (TDN), and then adjusting price compared to a known supplement value like soybean meal or corn. So how could a producer get a quick and dirty field estimation of hay value without dragging along a laptop to run all the calculations?
Always start by establishing a price based on per pound or per ton basis rather than per bale. Next, look at the hay quality analysis. Table 1 shows an example using nutrient content of grass hays based on the USDA grass hay quality guidelines. Prices assigned to quality are from the Oklahoma Hay Market Report for the week of June 25. So even though I may be giving up a little in protein, are the cheaper hays (B-C) still a good value for my money compared to A? A really simple way to figure this is to establish the crude protein unit cost of A which is $4.33 (65/15 = $4.33). Next, determine the value of the other hays in comparison to A based on per unit of crude protein content.
Table 1. Compared to A, the value of hays B-D is considerably lower and would not be considered a bargain even though they are priced less. Let's look at this another way: if we compared only hays A and B, and held the cost of B constant at $55/T, how high would A have to increase in price before the two values equal? Since B is being used as the comparison, establish the per unit value of its crude protein (55/11 = $5) and then compare to A (15 X 5 = $75). The price of A would have to increase $10/T to $75/T before the value of A=B on a per unit crude protein basis.
Note that this method is only comparing one nutrient and ignores other nutritional differences that may exist. However, as a general rule, with higher crude protein values, we also see higher TDN and lower fiber levels.
You also need to consider the class of livestock you are shopping for. For example, a dry pregnant cow in mid-gestation only needs 8-9 percent CP hay. So, while hay A is a better value based on crude protein, this type of cow does not need the high quality and it is still $20/T higher. On the other hand, this method can help when targeting hay for animals with high nutritional demands. This method also is not establishing a price; it is establishing a value, which can make comparison shopping a lot easier when price and quality are known.
Table 2 shows another tool - the USDA hay quality guidelines and the class of livestock for which they will work - that can also help in your shopping. You can find this and past articles on the web at www.mycountrytractor.com for your reference. Extension programs serve of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperatings serve of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperating
Thank you,
Tommy Neyland
County Extension Agent
Texas Agrilife Extension Service
P.O. Box 188
Centerville, Texas 75833
903.536.2531 phone
903.536.3804 fax
Chute "N" The Bull
A common misconception is that "low-stress" must mean "no pressure." That is absolutely false. Cattle, like all other animals, respond to appropriate application and release of pressure. There are times when significant pressure must be applied to get the animals to move how and when you need. Pressure, used appropriately, does not cause long-term, harmful stress.
A good cattle handler understands two key principals: flight zone (the "bubble" around an animal that, if invaded by a handler, will cause the animal to move away) and point of balance (the point, usually around the front shoulder, at which pressure in front of that point will cause the animal to stop or back up, and vice versa). When a stockman is at the edge of the flight zone and properly balanced, only slight movements are needed to control the animals in a low-stress manner. To make cattle speed up, walk against their direction of travel; to make them slow down, walk with them. As you pass the point of balance, notice how each animal responds to your movement and position.
A good stockman will stay quiet when working cattle. If cattle aren't doing what you want, it is not because they can't hear or see you. It is because you are in the wrong place doing the wrong thing. Don't yell and scream, and don't make wild movements. Move calmly, purposefully and in straight lines. Cattle will be able to predict your movements and respond appropriately to them. If you move like a predator (hesitating, followed by sudden movements and in curves around them), the cattle will treat you like a predator.
A good stockman is patient. The cattle don't care that you are late for dinner. Keep doing the right things until the cattle respond correctly. After you have mastered the art of stockmanship, you can usually work cattle quickly when you need to. But realize that if you make cattle do something before they are ready to do it, then it is no longer low-stress handling.
Train cattle how to behave every time you are with them. Go to the pen or pasture, and use these techniques to just move them around, teaching them to respond. If possible, move cattle through your corrals on their way to feed or to another pasture. Always make your cattle walk past you, single file, out of a gate. Don't let them run wildly, or they will hurt themselves and you, tear up your gates and be stressed when they finally stop. When moving cattle from a pasture, ignore the few cattle that quit the herd. If you drive the main herd in a low-stress manner, and don't chase the few on the edge, they will usually come back to the herd of their own volition. Work to incorporate these habits, and they will make you a better stockman. And don't say, "I'll try." "Try" is an excuse to fail. You can find this and past articles on the web at www.mycountrytractor.com for your reference. Extension programs serve of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperatings serve of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperating.
Thank you,
Tommy Neyland
County Extension Agent
Texas Agrilife Extension Service
P.O. Box 188
Centerville, Texas 75833
903.536.2531 phone
903.536.3804 fax
A good cattle handler understands two key principals: flight zone (the "bubble" around an animal that, if invaded by a handler, will cause the animal to move away) and point of balance (the point, usually around the front shoulder, at which pressure in front of that point will cause the animal to stop or back up, and vice versa). When a stockman is at the edge of the flight zone and properly balanced, only slight movements are needed to control the animals in a low-stress manner. To make cattle speed up, walk against their direction of travel; to make them slow down, walk with them. As you pass the point of balance, notice how each animal responds to your movement and position.
A good stockman will stay quiet when working cattle. If cattle aren't doing what you want, it is not because they can't hear or see you. It is because you are in the wrong place doing the wrong thing. Don't yell and scream, and don't make wild movements. Move calmly, purposefully and in straight lines. Cattle will be able to predict your movements and respond appropriately to them. If you move like a predator (hesitating, followed by sudden movements and in curves around them), the cattle will treat you like a predator.
A good stockman is patient. The cattle don't care that you are late for dinner. Keep doing the right things until the cattle respond correctly. After you have mastered the art of stockmanship, you can usually work cattle quickly when you need to. But realize that if you make cattle do something before they are ready to do it, then it is no longer low-stress handling.
Train cattle how to behave every time you are with them. Go to the pen or pasture, and use these techniques to just move them around, teaching them to respond. If possible, move cattle through your corrals on their way to feed or to another pasture. Always make your cattle walk past you, single file, out of a gate. Don't let them run wildly, or they will hurt themselves and you, tear up your gates and be stressed when they finally stop. When moving cattle from a pasture, ignore the few cattle that quit the herd. If you drive the main herd in a low-stress manner, and don't chase the few on the edge, they will usually come back to the herd of their own volition. Work to incorporate these habits, and they will make you a better stockman. And don't say, "I'll try." "Try" is an excuse to fail. You can find this and past articles on the web at www.mycountrytractor.com for your reference. Extension programs serve of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperatings serve of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperating.
Thank you,
Tommy Neyland
County Extension Agent
Texas Agrilife Extension Service
P.O. Box 188
Centerville, Texas 75833
903.536.2531 phone
903.536.3804 fax
Monday, July 20, 2009
Chute N The Bull
Several recent events have combined to pique my interest in promoting rainwater harvesting as an alternative source of water for landscape irrigation. The 2008 drought forced several area municipalities and rural water districts to place restrictions on the use of water for irrigating landscape plantings and home gardens. This should concern every gardener as demand for water is only projected to increase while ground water reserves are projected to decrease.
In light of the 2008 drought, watching thousands of gallons of rainwater pour off the roof of my house and escape the confines of my property this past spring brought home the need for and appropriateness of harvesting rainwater. As sheets of water flowed across my lawn and down the street, all I could think of was opportunity lost.
Harvesting rainwater for use in the home landscape saves money on your water bill while also reducing demand on municipal water supply and treatment. When water treatment facilities are forced to expand due to increased demand, the cost of expansion is passed on to the end user.
Often overlooked is the exceptional quality of rainwater. Rainwater is virtually salt-free and has a neutral pH. The same can't be said of many municipal water sources. The greater the salt content of water, the more energy plants must expend to use it. Salt-induced stress impedes growth and reduces fruit yield.
There are several factors you need to consider before investing in a rainwater harvest system. Depending on the size and complexity of the system, it could take several years for the system to pay for itself. Will you be able to install the system or will you need to hire a professional? Companies exist that specialize in the installation of rainwater harvest systems.
A common residential rainwater harvest system consists of a catchment (usually a roof), conveyance system (usually gutters), storage (usually an aboveground tank) and a distribution system (usually a drip irrigation system.) Storage containers can be made of polyethylene, fiberglass, wood, concrete or metal. Underground containers cost more to excavate, to maintain or to remove, and the need to pump water out of them adds to the cost.
To calculate the water harvest potential of your roof in gallons, measure the square footage underneath the drip-line and multiply by 0.6 for each inch of precipitation. For example, a house located in Ardmore (37 inches annual rainfall) having a 2,000 sq. ft. roof catchment area can be expected to harvest 44,400 gallons annually.
When sizing a storage tank(s), keep in mind that storage capacity doesn't equate to harvest volume. Because storage is continually being depleted, primarily during the summer months, tank capacity can be smaller than harvest volume. To calculate required storage capacity and any need for supplemental water, you must first calculate demand (plant water use). A garden can easily use 2 inches of water per week during the summer. This is equivalent to 1.2 gallons per square foot of garden space.
Do you feel guilty watching rainwater run off your property? Maybe it's time you consider installing a rainwater harvest system. For a detailed discussion on rainwater harvesting including information on calculating storage capacity based on demand, consult Texas Agri Life Extension Publication B-6153, Rainwater Harvesting, available online at rainwaterharvesting.tamu.edu/publications.html. You can find this and past articles on the web at www.mycountrytractor.com for your reference. Extension programs serve of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperatings serve of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperating.
Thank you,
Tommy Neyland
County Extension Agent
Texas Agrilife Extension Service
P.O. Box 188
Centerville, Texas 75833
903.536.2531 phone
903.536.3804 fax
In light of the 2008 drought, watching thousands of gallons of rainwater pour off the roof of my house and escape the confines of my property this past spring brought home the need for and appropriateness of harvesting rainwater. As sheets of water flowed across my lawn and down the street, all I could think of was opportunity lost.
Harvesting rainwater for use in the home landscape saves money on your water bill while also reducing demand on municipal water supply and treatment. When water treatment facilities are forced to expand due to increased demand, the cost of expansion is passed on to the end user.
Often overlooked is the exceptional quality of rainwater. Rainwater is virtually salt-free and has a neutral pH. The same can't be said of many municipal water sources. The greater the salt content of water, the more energy plants must expend to use it. Salt-induced stress impedes growth and reduces fruit yield.
There are several factors you need to consider before investing in a rainwater harvest system. Depending on the size and complexity of the system, it could take several years for the system to pay for itself. Will you be able to install the system or will you need to hire a professional? Companies exist that specialize in the installation of rainwater harvest systems.
A common residential rainwater harvest system consists of a catchment (usually a roof), conveyance system (usually gutters), storage (usually an aboveground tank) and a distribution system (usually a drip irrigation system.) Storage containers can be made of polyethylene, fiberglass, wood, concrete or metal. Underground containers cost more to excavate, to maintain or to remove, and the need to pump water out of them adds to the cost.
To calculate the water harvest potential of your roof in gallons, measure the square footage underneath the drip-line and multiply by 0.6 for each inch of precipitation. For example, a house located in Ardmore (37 inches annual rainfall) having a 2,000 sq. ft. roof catchment area can be expected to harvest 44,400 gallons annually.
When sizing a storage tank(s), keep in mind that storage capacity doesn't equate to harvest volume. Because storage is continually being depleted, primarily during the summer months, tank capacity can be smaller than harvest volume. To calculate required storage capacity and any need for supplemental water, you must first calculate demand (plant water use). A garden can easily use 2 inches of water per week during the summer. This is equivalent to 1.2 gallons per square foot of garden space.
Do you feel guilty watching rainwater run off your property? Maybe it's time you consider installing a rainwater harvest system. For a detailed discussion on rainwater harvesting including information on calculating storage capacity based on demand, consult Texas Agri Life Extension Publication B-6153, Rainwater Harvesting, available online at rainwaterharvesting.tamu.edu/publications.html. You can find this and past articles on the web at www.mycountrytractor.com for your reference. Extension programs serve of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperatings serve of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperating.
Thank you,
Tommy Neyland
County Extension Agent
Texas Agrilife Extension Service
P.O. Box 188
Centerville, Texas 75833
903.536.2531 phone
903.536.3804 fax
Chute N The Bull
Summer isn't always kind to Texas turfgrasses. Heat and drought combine
to put lawns through real struggles. Here are some simple guidelines to
help you – and your grass – survive summer intact.
Common bermuda should be fertilized every 8 weeks (dwarf hybrid bermudas
more often, but with lighter doses at each feeding). Use a high-nitrogen
or all-nitrogen lawn food, very preferably one that does not have a
weedkiller included. Mow it at 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 inches, and mow on 4- or
5-day intervals to keep the grass low and spreading. If you find that
the grass is brown for 2 or 3 days after you mow, consider raising the
mower one notch (but not above 1-3/4 inches). That browning is because
you have been mowing down into stem stubble. Raising the blade will
help. However, you will need to remember to drop the blade down that
same notch in late winter next year so that the grass doesn't become
gradually taller.
If you have weeds in your bermuda lawn use the appropriate herbicide(s)
to control them. Apply a broadleafed weedkiller (containing 2,4-D) for
the non-grassy weeds, and apply MSMA to control grassy weeds such as
dallisgrass, crabgrass and grassburs. Use Image or Sedgehammer to
eliminate nutsedge ("nutgrass"). Read and follow label directions
carefully.
St. Augustine is a tropical grass that loves the heat. It also does its
best in the sun. Many of us use it, however, because of its tolerance of
shade. While bermuda and other grasses need 6 to 8 hours of sunlight
daily, St. Augustine can thrive on as few as 4 hours. St. Augustine is
the dominant grass of all the types we have at our disposal. As such, it
will crowd its way into all other types of grasses.
Fertilize St. Augustine in early summer, then wait until mid-September
to feed it again. Gray leaf spot (a fungal disease) can be an issue in
the hottest part of the summer when you apply nitrogen to it. If it does
show up, apply a labeled fungicide to stop its spread. Watch, too, for
chinch bugs. They will leave sunny, hot areas of the lawn dry-looking,
even after you water. They're small, black insects with white diamonds
on the backs of their wings. You'll be able to see them at the interface
of dying grass and healthy grass on the hottest summer afternoons. Lawn
insecticides will control them.
If you have nutsedge in your St. Augustine, apply Image or Sedgehammer
as mentioned for bermuda. If you have dallisgrass, you'll either have to
spot-treat with a glyphosate herbicide or hand-dig the weed. MSMA cannot
be used in St. Augustine turf. In fact, you can actually use MSMA to
eliminate invading St. Augustine from bermuda lawns.
Zoysias are warm-season grasses, and, as such, can be handled similarly
to bermuda and St. Augustine. Feed your lawn now and again in very early
fall. Mow as needed and at the height recommended for the variety you're
growing. There are scores of varieties, so ask questions of your turf
vendor. Some are intended to be mowed very short, while others must be
allowed to grow taller, to 2 or 2-1/2 inches.
Buffalograss grows slowly. It also requires a lot less maintenance than
the other grasses, and it's drought-tolerant to boot. However, bermuda
invades it and cannot be controlled. In areas where we have turf or
native stands of bermudagrass nearby, buffalograss will probably never
become mainstream so long as we have no herbicide that will eliminate
bermuda without harming the buffalograss.
Fescues look their worst over the summer. That's because they are
"cool-season" grasses that gear up and start growing in late September
and October, then breeze through the winter and into mid-spring, before
Texas' hot season takes its toll. Apply ample water regularly. Avoid all
plant foods until fall. Make plans to overseed every September to keep
fescue lawns full and dense. For the record, fescues are better suited
to Northwest Texas, where summer evenings are somewhat cooler. You can
find this and past articles on the web at www.mycountrytractor.com for
your reference. Extensocioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability, or national
origin. The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of
Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperatings
serve of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex,
religion, disability, or national origin. The Texas A&M University
System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners
Courts of Texas Cooperating.
Thank you,
Tommy Neyland
County Extension Agent
Texas Agrilife Extension Service
P.O. Box 188
Centerville, Texas 75833
903.536.2531 phone
903.536.3804 fax
to put lawns through real struggles. Here are some simple guidelines to
help you – and your grass – survive summer intact.
Common bermuda should be fertilized every 8 weeks (dwarf hybrid bermudas
more often, but with lighter doses at each feeding). Use a high-nitrogen
or all-nitrogen lawn food, very preferably one that does not have a
weedkiller included. Mow it at 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 inches, and mow on 4- or
5-day intervals to keep the grass low and spreading. If you find that
the grass is brown for 2 or 3 days after you mow, consider raising the
mower one notch (but not above 1-3/4 inches). That browning is because
you have been mowing down into stem stubble. Raising the blade will
help. However, you will need to remember to drop the blade down that
same notch in late winter next year so that the grass doesn't become
gradually taller.
If you have weeds in your bermuda lawn use the appropriate herbicide(s)
to control them. Apply a broadleafed weedkiller (containing 2,4-D) for
the non-grassy weeds, and apply MSMA to control grassy weeds such as
dallisgrass, crabgrass and grassburs. Use Image or Sedgehammer to
eliminate nutsedge ("nutgrass"). Read and follow label directions
carefully.
St. Augustine is a tropical grass that loves the heat. It also does its
best in the sun. Many of us use it, however, because of its tolerance of
shade. While bermuda and other grasses need 6 to 8 hours of sunlight
daily, St. Augustine can thrive on as few as 4 hours. St. Augustine is
the dominant grass of all the types we have at our disposal. As such, it
will crowd its way into all other types of grasses.
Fertilize St. Augustine in early summer, then wait until mid-September
to feed it again. Gray leaf spot (a fungal disease) can be an issue in
the hottest part of the summer when you apply nitrogen to it. If it does
show up, apply a labeled fungicide to stop its spread. Watch, too, for
chinch bugs. They will leave sunny, hot areas of the lawn dry-looking,
even after you water. They're small, black insects with white diamonds
on the backs of their wings. You'll be able to see them at the interface
of dying grass and healthy grass on the hottest summer afternoons. Lawn
insecticides will control them.
If you have nutsedge in your St. Augustine, apply Image or Sedgehammer
as mentioned for bermuda. If you have dallisgrass, you'll either have to
spot-treat with a glyphosate herbicide or hand-dig the weed. MSMA cannot
be used in St. Augustine turf. In fact, you can actually use MSMA to
eliminate invading St. Augustine from bermuda lawns.
Zoysias are warm-season grasses, and, as such, can be handled similarly
to bermuda and St. Augustine. Feed your lawn now and again in very early
fall. Mow as needed and at the height recommended for the variety you're
growing. There are scores of varieties, so ask questions of your turf
vendor. Some are intended to be mowed very short, while others must be
allowed to grow taller, to 2 or 2-1/2 inches.
Buffalograss grows slowly. It also requires a lot less maintenance than
the other grasses, and it's drought-tolerant to boot. However, bermuda
invades it and cannot be controlled. In areas where we have turf or
native stands of bermudagrass nearby, buffalograss will probably never
become mainstream so long as we have no herbicide that will eliminate
bermuda without harming the buffalograss.
Fescues look their worst over the summer. That's because they are
"cool-season" grasses that gear up and start growing in late September
and October, then breeze through the winter and into mid-spring, before
Texas' hot season takes its toll. Apply ample water regularly. Avoid all
plant foods until fall. Make plans to overseed every September to keep
fescue lawns full and dense. For the record, fescues are better suited
to Northwest Texas, where summer evenings are somewhat cooler. You can
find this and past articles on the web at www.mycountrytractor.com for
your reference. Extensocioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability, or national
origin. The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of
Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperatings
serve of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex,
religion, disability, or national origin. The Texas A&M University
System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners
Courts of Texas Cooperating.
Thank you,
Tommy Neyland
County Extension Agent
Texas Agrilife Extension Service
P.O. Box 188
Centerville, Texas 75833
903.536.2531 phone
903.536.3804 fax
Monday, June 29, 2009
Chute n the Bull
In April 2009, I attended a meeting at which water issues were the central theme. There were several farmers and ranchers in attendance who did not realize that they should have a water permit for their wells or the streams/rivers from which irrigation was being used. So what is the law in Oklahoma and Texas related to water rights, and do you need a permit for your operation? These issues were covered at the meeting, but may not be widely disseminated to agriculture producers so the answers may be beneficial to some of you.
Who owns the water? In both Oklahoma and Texas, surface water (streams, creeks and rivers) is the property of the state. The use of this water requires a water permit. With a permit, water can be used for irrigation on a use-it or lose-it rule. In Oklahoma, you have seven years to set your baseline usage, and, in Texas, you have 10 years. The baseline is the highest level of water usage in one year during a preset period. If you are using less water than you were permitted, then the remainder of the water can be reallocated to another permit holder of the state's choice.
Groundwater, on the other hand, is owned by the property owner. In Oklahoma, property owners are allowed domestic use of the water without a water permit. Domestic use is defined as water used for household purposes, watering for domestic animals and gardens/orchards of no more than three acres in size. You are allowed to use up to two acre-feet (651,702 gallons) per year. If you are irrigating anything larger than three acres or using more than two acre-feet of water, then you are required to file for a water permit. With the permit, you can be permitted to pump up to two acre-feet of water per acre of land that you own or lease, unless you are in a sensitive aquifer (Arbuckle-Simpson) area. In Texas, groundwater is also owned by the landowner. Unless you own land in an area in which water is controlled by a conservation district, there are currently no restraints on the amount of water that can be pumped, as long as it is from beneath your land and not adjacent land. If, however, you are located in one of the conservation districts, such as the Upper Trinity Groundwater Conservation District (Montague, Parker, Wise and Hood Counties), then you are required to have a permit to pump more than two acre-feet of water per year.
If you are irrigating without a water permit or are thinking about drilling a well or using a stream/river to irrigate, it would be in your best interest to inquire about the need for a water permit. This will ensure that the amount of water that you use will be on record if the state ever begins a strict regulation policy. According to the rules of both states, the permits are on a first-come, first-served basis. Extension programs serve of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. The Texas A&M University
System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperatings serve of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. The TeAgriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperating
Thank you,
Tommy Neyland
County Extension Agent
Texas Agrilife Extension Service
P.O. Box 188
Centerville, Texas 75833
903.536.2531 phone
903.536.3804 fax
Who owns the water? In both Oklahoma and Texas, surface water (streams, creeks and rivers) is the property of the state. The use of this water requires a water permit. With a permit, water can be used for irrigation on a use-it or lose-it rule. In Oklahoma, you have seven years to set your baseline usage, and, in Texas, you have 10 years. The baseline is the highest level of water usage in one year during a preset period. If you are using less water than you were permitted, then the remainder of the water can be reallocated to another permit holder of the state's choice.
Groundwater, on the other hand, is owned by the property owner. In Oklahoma, property owners are allowed domestic use of the water without a water permit. Domestic use is defined as water used for household purposes, watering for domestic animals and gardens/orchards of no more than three acres in size. You are allowed to use up to two acre-feet (651,702 gallons) per year. If you are irrigating anything larger than three acres or using more than two acre-feet of water, then you are required to file for a water permit. With the permit, you can be permitted to pump up to two acre-feet of water per acre of land that you own or lease, unless you are in a sensitive aquifer (Arbuckle-Simpson) area. In Texas, groundwater is also owned by the landowner. Unless you own land in an area in which water is controlled by a conservation district, there are currently no restraints on the amount of water that can be pumped, as long as it is from beneath your land and not adjacent land. If, however, you are located in one of the conservation districts, such as the Upper Trinity Groundwater Conservation District (Montague, Parker, Wise and Hood Counties), then you are required to have a permit to pump more than two acre-feet of water per year.
If you are irrigating without a water permit or are thinking about drilling a well or using a stream/river to irrigate, it would be in your best interest to inquire about the need for a water permit. This will ensure that the amount of water that you use will be on record if the state ever begins a strict regulation policy. According to the rules of both states, the permits are on a first-come, first-served basis. Extension programs serve of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. The Texas A&M University
System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperatings serve of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. The TeAgriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperating
Thank you,
Tommy Neyland
County Extension Agent
Texas Agrilife Extension Service
P.O. Box 188
Centerville, Texas 75833
903.536.2531 phone
903.536.3804 fax
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