Chute N The Bull

Vegetable gardening offers fresh air, sunshine, exercise, enjoyment, mental therapy, nutritious fresh vegetables, and economic savings, as well as many other benefits. Vegetables can be grown year-round in parts of Texas if attention is paid to the appropriate planting dates. While this guide provides recommendations primarily for home gardens, the information may be useful in other situations, such as container, community, and market gardens.


Locate a site. For convenience locate the garden near the house, on a well drained site, close to a source of water, and in a location that receives at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. With proper care, vegetables may also be included in the landscape among ornamental plants. Coastal sites are also suitable. Where possible, rotate the garden from place to place to help control soil diseases and other pests.

Plan the layout. Before planting, draw a garden plan that includes the name, location and planting date(s) of the vegetables you want to grow. Use the Planting Guide and the list of suggested varietiey to develop your plan. Make a list of supplies and order or purchase seeds early if you intend to grow your own transplants. The Planting Guide lists which vegetable seedlings transplant easily and which do not. Vegetables that are difficult to transplant should be seeded directly into the garden or started in containers first.

Prepare the soil. Gardeners often plant on whatever soil type is available, but it is usually worthwhile to improve the garden plot with additions of organic matter (see below). Spade or plow the plot at least three weeks before planting. At planting time, rework the soil into a smooth, firm surface.

Apply organic matter. Most Texas soils benefit from the addition of organic matter, such as animal manure, rotted leaves, compost, commercial soil mixes and cover crops. Thoroughly mix liberal amounts of (un-composted) organics in the soil well in advance of planting, preferably at least a month before seeding. If you do not plan to use inorganic fertilizer, spread 25 - 100 pounds of compost or composted animal manure per 100 square feet. Composted organics may be applied at planting time. However, un-composted manures should be worked into the soil 90-120 days before planting. Due to inconsistent levels of nutrients in compost, accompanying applications of inorganic or organic fertilizer may be beneficial. To avoid plant stunting, organic amendments low in nitrogen (such as composted yard debris) must be accompanied by fertilizer. See EDIS Publications.

Consider cover crops. Green manure is fresh plant material turned into the soil. Planting and plowing in green-manure crops during the off-season is beneficial. The following cover crops are recommended: cowpea, velvet bean, soybean, and sunflower in summer and cereal rye, crimson clover, and Austrian winter pea in winter.

Adjust Soil pH. Soil pH is important because it governs how available nutrients are to plants. The best pH range for vegetable gardens on sandy soil is between pH 5.8 and 6.3. If your soil pH is between 5.5 and 7.0, no adjustment in pH needs to be made.

If your soil pH is below 5.5, apply lime at a rate recommended by a reliable soil testing facility. Two to three pounds of finely ground dolomitic limestone per 100 square feet will usually raise the pH one point. Caution: Application of lime when it is not needed may cause plant nutritional problems. Lime is best applied two to three months before the garden is to be planted. However, lime may be applied as late as one or two weeks before planting. Make sure the lime is thoroughly mixed into the soil to a depth of 6 - 8 inches and then water the soil to promote the chemical reaction.

If your soil pH is naturally above 7.0 (alkaline), where limestone, marl, or shells are present, there is no practical way of permanently lowering soil pH. Additions of acidic organic matter will help, but only temporarily. Use a fertilizer that contains micronutrients. If the high pH is the result of previous over-liming, application of granular sulfur (1 lb/100 sq ft) will lower soil pH. You can find this and past articles on the web at www.mycountrytractor.blogspot.com for your reference. Extension programs serve of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperating serve of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperating









Thank you,

Tommy Neyland
County Extension Agent
Texas Agrilife Extension Service
P.O. Box 188
Centerville, Texas 75833
903.536.2531 phone
903.536.3804 fax

Chute N The Bull 9-25-09

While fall armyworms feed around the clock, true armyworms feed primarily at night and will not be found farther up on plants during the day.


Hordes of fall armyworms and true armyworms have invaded several Central Texas counties, and the assault will likely continue.

This increase has caused problems for many area producers as there has been an associated increase in the destruction of green grass crops in the area. In areas of Freestone, Leon and Madison counties, pastures and hayfields have been completely stripped. And the affected area is probably more extensive and will continue to expand.

Extension agents in these and nearby counties have been asked to alert producers to be on the lookout for possible armyworm infestations.

We're trying to get producers in the region to scout their pastures, hayfields and early-planted grains for armyworms because any green grass crop may be at risk.

In spite of their names, fall armyworms and true armyworms are not worms but the "immatures" or caterpillars of moths.

Fall armyworms feed around the clock, true armyworms feed primarily at night and will not be found farther up on plants during the day.

Producers should look for armyworms down in the crowns of plants and under debris on the soil surface.

The acceptable quantity "threshold" for fall armyworms is three larvae ? inch long or longer per square foot. For true armyworms, the threshold is three larvae ? inch long or longer per foot of drill or four per square foot.

The easiest way to distinguish between the two species is that the fall armyworm has an inverted, cream-colored "Y" shape which contrasts with its dark brown head capsule.

The true armyworm doesn't have this feature, and the head capsule is a lighter brown.

It's more than likely a fall armyworm if feeding during the daytime. There are different ways to manage these two species. If a producer has armyworms in a hayfield, it may be possible to mow and let it dry down. And if there's livestock, the producer can run those animals in the affected area to eat the grass before the armyworms get to it. But these methods require close monitoring to ensure any surviving larvae don't prevent grass regrowth. Chemical control can be effective and recommended that producers use an insecticide licensed for use on true armyworms and fall armyworms.

While some insect control can be achieved by non-chemical means, pesticides provide a more effective and broader control of these pests. However, it is a good idea for producers to determine the extent of infestation and compare that with the cost of treatment to help determine which way to go. You can find this and past articles on the web at www.mycountrytractor.blogspot.com for your reference. Extension programs serve of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperating serve of all ages regardless of socioeconomic level, race, color, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperating









Thank you,

Tommy Neyland
County Extension Agent
Texas Agrilife Extension Service
P.O. Box 188
Centerville, Texas 75833
903.536.2531 phone
903.536.3804 fax